Monkey Mia located in the heart of the Francois Peron National Park.
It is a resort, conference centre and camping ground and is
essentially there for one reason: the dolphins. They come in to the
beach every morning to be fed by the staff. We went down there
about 7.30am to find about four swimming around and they were joined
soon after by another two. Each of them had a name and was
distinguished by the shape of their fins. It was amazing being
so close to them and knowing that they felt completely comfortable
being there. We were able to stand in about a foot of
water so they were literally swimming around our feet waiting to be
fed.
Dolphin feeding at Monkey Mia |
Feeding was at 8am so for half an hour the rangers told us about the
history of Monkey Mia, its global research significance today and
also about the dolphins themselves. They only receive
about 20% of their daily food requirements so they don't become
dependent on it. After they had received a few fish each they
quickly lost interest and headed back out into the bay. They do
three feedings each morning that the dolphins routinely come back for
so we went back about 10am to see them again.
The unique Shell Beach |
On our way out of Shark Bay we stopped at Shell Beach for a quick
swim. As the name suggests, instead of sand the beach is a mass
of millions of tiny white shells and more are being washed ashore
every day. Beneath all those loose shells there would probably
be a great supply of coquina if they ever needed more. That
night we headed south and found a free camping area next to the
Murchison River. The only problem was the road into it was
flooded so we found a flat piece of ground nearby and that became our
campsite.
Count the flies on my face! |
The tent came down in absolute record time the next morning because
of a crazy swarm of flies, mosquitoes and sandflies. We were
under attack like I've never been before! We were literally
throwing things into the car to get out of there! Our
destination that morning was the Kalbarri National Park. We
were lucky in a way that the Murchison River was in flood because the
gorges we saw are usually totally dry. For anyone who's been
there, my favourite spot was the Z Bend but I loved the unique rock
formation of Natures Window also.
Floodwaters in the Kalbarri National Park |
Down in the township of Kalbarri we got an appreciation of the
flooding and how high the river was. There was a huge
volume of water spewing out and creating a huge brown shape
in the otherwise blue ocean. Fortunately the town had been
spared any flooding thanks to sandbagging and other precautions. The
coast south of the town had a number of lookouts that reminded me a
little of the Great Ocean Road - especially the Natural Bridge,
which is a huge arch in the rock caused by many years of erosion.
We continued south through Geraldton and drove till it was dark;
finally making camp near a little place called Green Head. The
last place we wanted to visit on this epic journey was the
spectacular Pinnacles Desert in the Namburg National Park. The
Pinnacles are limestone pillars that rise from the sand rather like
large headstones in a cemetery. Their lime rich sand originates from
seashells that were compacted by rain and subsequently eroded.
Pinnacles Desert |
The best time to view these is either morning or evening because
the shadows they cast make them look even more impressive. We
arrived about 7am and got some striking photos of the pillars in the
sun but with a dark grey sky behind them. After less than half an
hour the threatening skies clouded over completely and we happily set
a final course for the capital and largest city of Western
Australia, Perth.