Northern New South Wales

Having been to the most westerly point of mainland Australia, the most easterly point of Byron Bay was added to my bucket list. So with my girlfriend and a rental car, we headed south for a long weekend. Before crossing the New South Wales border, we passed through the playground that is the Gold Coast beaches. At the centre of it all is the famous Surfers Paradise where the party scene is as much an attraction as the sand. Despite the name, the surfers are drawn to other beaches further down the coast but lifeguards are always kept busy with swimmers, especially on summer weekends.

Tweed Heads marks the border between the two states at which point we turned inland and headed into the northern New South Wales hinterland. The undulating landscape down here is a blanket of lush rainforest, pastoral lands, orchards and eucalypt trees that are traversed by pretty winding roads. Our destination was the elaborately named Wollumbin-Mount Warning National Park and despite a few showers coming through the Gold Coast, our goal was to climb Mount Warning itself. 

Doing the boulder scramble up Mount Warning

Named by Captain Cook (to avoid the rocky Point Danger on the New South Wales coastline), Mount Warning was once the central magma chamber of a massive 4,000 sq km volcano.  Today, the ancient caldera is known as a centre of spiritual energy and is sacred to the Aboriginal people. Much of the 4.5km hike to the summit (1157m) rises gently through rainforest but the final 400 metres is a boulder scramble using a chain to haul yourself to the top.  We made the return hike in only three hours, but unfortunately the magnificent views were obscured at the top by thick cloud.

Main street of Nimbin

While in the area, we took the opportunity to visit the strange little town of Nimbin. Since a music festival in 1973, Nimbin has been synonymous with hippies, marijuana and alternative lifestyle.  The brightly coloured buildings along the quiet main street add to the unique vibe created by the people we met there.  It has an interesting art scene where creativity often through marijuana. It’s not legal in Nimbin more than anywhere else in the country but police tend to turn a blind eye. So we sat down with a coffee and special cookie to enjoy the dreadlocked and tie-dyed world going around.

We stayed the night in Lismore which is the hinterland’s main commercial centre. Sitting on the Wilson River, it has various heritage listed and art deco buildings including a hotel that Queen Elizabeth II once stayed at. After a look around the town we followed the walking track along the river back to the car and set a course for Ballina at the mouth of the Richmond River. It’s a reasonable size town that finds itself caught halfway between being a commercial centre and a tourist destination. Either way, it’s renowned as the home of the Big Prawn.

Big Prawn, Ballina

Just north of Ballina, Bryon Bay doesn’t have any kind of identity predicament. With surf breaks, beaches, dining and nightlife, it is one of the premier travel destinations of the east coast. For even the cynical or travel weary, it’s hard not to be enamoured here and many find themselves staying longer than planned. Unfortunately our stay was limited to just the afternoon but we certainly made the most of it.

Cape Byron - the most easterly point of Australia

The edge of Cape Byron is the most easterly point of Australia and we arrived here after following the walkway that ribbons around the headland. Towering over the cape is the historic lighthouse built in 1901. After having a look inside, we continued on the Cape Bryon Walking Track until it led us through the State Conservation Park and the picturesque Captain Cook Lookout. We stopped to visit a friend in Kingscliff near the Queensland border where he proudly showed me his ‘backyard’ of the northernmost beach in New South Wales.

Brisbane

A wonderful couple of weeks disappeared quickly and it was time to head south to Brisbane. The Queensland capital shares its name with the Brisbane River that winds through the heart of the city. It’s an easy going place where green spaces, an artificial beach and historic buildings are woven into a modern urban landscape. There is a vibrant arts and sporting scene and when you add the temperate sub-tropical climate you have a few reasons why it has since become my home.

City Cat ferry on the Brisbane River

The jewel in the Brisbane city crown is the lovely strip of lawns, rainforest and cultural attractions along the southern bank of the river. Southbank Parklands is a remnant of the World Expo in 1988 and there has recently been a 60m sightseeing wheel added. Southbank is bordered at one end by the Cultural Centre which is a sprawling area including the State Library, Performing Arts Centre, Queensland Museum and Art Gallery. On the other end is the Maritime Museum and I’ve taken time to visit all these fine attractions.

Lagoon and beach at Southbank

The landmark across the river is the lavish old Treasury Building that is now the city’s casino. It marks the beginning of the Queen St pedestrian mall and a CBD where all the streets running north-south are English queens and those running east- west are kings. Brisbane has two botanical gardens, one of which is beside the river in the city and the other a short drive away at the base of Mount Coot-tha. There is a superb lookout on top of the mountain that offers views of the city and out to the Moreton Bay islands.

Cycle pathway around Kangaroo Point

Several significant bridges cross the Brisbane River but the most iconic of them is the Story Bridge which has recently celebrated its 75^th birthday. Although I’ve crossed the bridge numerous times, I’ve never done the adventure climb that ascends to its highest points 80 metres above the river. There is a large network of cycle paths in the city including scenic routes that follow the river but there’s nothing quite like actually getting out on the water. Aside from the cruise boats, there is a large fleet of city ferries gliding the river every day so no excuses!

The iconic Brisbane City Hall

The icon of Brisbane is the attractive 1930’s sandstone City Hall that proudly overlooks King George Square. It was closed to the public for a number of years because it required extensive restoration but it is now reopened with a magnificent interior. The observation platform up in the bell tower offers brilliant city views and tucked away in the same building is the Museum of Brisbane which showcases the history and cultural landscape of the city. A very short walk away is one of the world’s largest subtropical urban gardens, the lovely Roma St Parklands.

The Sunshine Coast

When I was living in Cairns, I added the World Heritage listed Fraser Island to my Australian bucket list. Unfortunately this largest sand island in the world (120km by 15km) hasn’t been ticked off yet but I can at least say I’ve seen it. On a trip north one day we visited the Great Sandy National Park on what is known as the Cooloola Coast. This park actually includes Fraser Island that we could see from Rainbow Beach and there were also nice views from Carlo Sandblow which is a huge 120m-high dune.

Overlooking Fraser Island from Carlo Sandblow

In was in the area that I decided to walk a 7km track along the path of an old telegraph line. It was late in the afternoon, starting to get gloomy and I was only wearing shorts and a t-shirt. I had about a kilometre to go when I lost the track. I tried to backtrack but suddenly I was disorientated and lost. Being winter, it was getting cold and I only had about 30 minutes of daylight left so I had to act quickly. I suddenly became very aware of how easy it would be to panic. All the trees looked the same and I couldn’t find any landmarks that I’d passed.

Kookaburra in the Mapleton Falls National Park

From the map in my pocket, I knew there was a road to my right but after turning in circles I didn’t even know which way was right. In the end I had to gamble on my instinct. I began pushing through the bush either getting closer to the road or further from it. Thoughts of an utterly miserable night flashed across my mind until the bush suddenly opened out onto a rather bumpy old road. At the car park my friend was waiting patiently in the car for me. I’m not sure who was more pleased to see who in the end!

Climbing in the Glass House Mountains

For me, the highlight of the Sunshine Coast was our visit to the Glass House Mountains.  Believed by Aborigines to be a family of mountain spirits, they are described by Lonely Planet as "13 ethereally shaped volcanic crags sticking up from the coastal plain".  Small national parks surround six of these peaks. We visited three of them and also a lookout that offers panoramic views of all the mountains.

Sitting on the top of Mount Beerwah

Standing at 556m, Mount Beerwah is the highest peak in the park.  While this elevation isn't exactly in the clouds, it’s a tough climb!  The brochure we had reads: "Suitable for experienced rock climbers only.  Routes that lead to the summit have steep rocky sections and irregular surfaces with loose stones that require rock scrambling and some rock climbing skills."  They weren't kidding and it’s not for the faint hearted!  We also climbed Mount Ngungun (253m) and I finished the day with a couple of walks around Mount Tibrogargan.

The full circle

As my flight touched down in Brisbane airport, I had a sense of satisfaction. It had completed the circle so to speak. I’d started over a year before on the east coast and from there had explored the length and breadth of Australia. Obviously there were far corners I hadn’t reached but overall I didn’t have too many regrets. I’d travelled many thousands of kilometres across a multitude of different landscapes. I’d experienced all kinds of weather and met all kinds of people.

The Big Pineapple

I imagined that after spending a few weeks in southeast Queensland and northern New South Wales my journey would be complete and I’d return to New Zealand. What I didn’t imagine was that years later, I’d still be there and calling Brisbane my home. I simply couldn’t resist the attractive climate and lifestyle of this beautiful part of the country and indeed the world.

 

My arrival coincided with an invitation from a friend to help housesit for her sister in Coolum. So for two wonderful weeks we had a car to explore the lovely beaches and pretty hinterland areas of the Sunshine Coast. It was nice to warm up again also. After the cool autumnal temperatures of Adelaide, the average temperatures here are in the low 20's and we could swim at the local beach. The other thing I enjoyed here is Mount Coolum (208m) which offers bird’s-eye views of the town and other beaches along the coast.

Hanging around in the hinterland

Arguably the best of these beaches is at gorgeous Noosa. The rainforest of the adjacent national park here seems to blend almost seamlessly with the beautiful stretch of sand and the fashionable boulevard of the town. It’s sophisticated and elite but at the same time relaxed and unassuming. I enjoyed the Noosa National Park as much as the beach. It covers the eastern headland that protects the beach and the bushwalks take in great coastal scenery and bays that draw surfers from far and wide.

Noosa Beach and National Park

Other beaches are strung along the coast down to the town of Mooloolaba but we were also eager to get inland to enjoy the charming towns and native bush of the hinterland. Our visit to the quaint village of Eumundi was on a Saturday morning so we could experience the market that draws thousands each week. The 300-plus stalls selling a huge variety of arts, crafts, clothing, food and alternative healing products create a relaxed vibe and I would have been happy to stay longer if we didn’t have some bushwalking planned for the afternoon in the rainforest of the nearby Mapleton Falls National Park.

Kangaroo Island

Before leaving Adelaide, there was a final bucket list item to tick and just like when I was in Perth, it involved an island. This time, it was the aptly named Kangaroo Island which is acknowledged to be one of the best places in Australia to enjoy rugged coastal scenery and some untamed wilderness that is home to a virtual zoo of wildlife.

Most of the first day of my three-day tour was spent on the fertile Fleurieu Peninsula which is patterned with vineyards, olive groves and almond plantations. We visited a couple of wineries in what is known as the McLaren Vale Wine Region and I reacquainted myself with the divine tasting mead. Other wines, especially some of the reds are reputed to be superior to anything produced in the Barossa Valley. We shared a bottle over lunch at Victor Harbor (yes, that is the correct spelling) on what is known as the Encounter Coast.

Loaded up and ready to go!

Just off-shore at Victor Harbor is the boulder-strewn Granite Island which is connected to the mainland by a causeway built in 1875. A popular tourist attraction is to ride the old horse-drawn tram out to the island where there is a penguin colony. Tours to see the penguins start at about the same time we were boarding the ferry from Cape Jervis. The 13km journey across Backstairs Passage took about 30 minutes so the sun was setting as we arrived at the town of Penneshaw on the island.

The second day took us to Seal Bay where we got up close and personal with some sea lions.  We were under the close watch of a ranger but still allowed within about 15 metres of them.  In the afternoon we climbed Prospect Hill which offered great views of Pelican Lagoon and out over Pennington Bay to the south. We finished our day a place called Little Sahara on the southern coast.  As the name suggests, the huge sand dunes here that we surfed down on special boards offered some great fun.

Sea Lion pups at Seal Bay

The third day was the best because we explored the Flinders Chase National Park at the western end of the island.  The highlight and most photographed place on the island is the Remarkable Rocks.  Out on an exposed promontory, these amazing rocks have been uniquely shaped by sea and wind.  We also went to the impressive rock archway called Admiral's Arch near the remote lighthouse on Cape du Couedic. From the boardwalk we could see a colony of New Zealand fur seals lazing on the rocks below us.

The aptly named Remarkable Rocks

We had lunch at nearby Hansons Bay where I did a lovely bush walk before returning for our ferry. Near the picnic area here we watched as a koala descended one tree and then climbed another in front of us. It was exciting because they sleep about 19 hours a day! Apart from that, we saw at different times on the tour penguins, kangaroos, wallabies and an echidna all in their natural habitat. There were also various birds such as the wedge tail eagle and Cape Baron goose.

Kangaroos at Hansons Bay

Because it was the winter season, our accommodation for the two nights was a hut and little farmhouse.  During summer it's the more basic camping and sleeping in swags.  We still had a big camp fire outside for cooking, making billy tea and roasting marshmallows. Telling stories and having a laugh around the campfire is always a memorable part of such as tour. The guide kept us amused with all kinds of tales and his stew was delicious. Good times and happy memories that I’d soon be taking with me to the warmer climes Queensland.

Barossa Valley

Adelaide is overlooked in the east by the Mount Lofty Ranges that are often referred to as simply the Adelaide Hills. This is the gateway to the Barossa Valley that is Australia's premium wine growing area. Many of the top wineries such as Jacobs Creek, Penfolds and Wolf Blass are located there.  The vineyards aside, the idyllic towns and beautiful scenery of the valley make for a great day trip that I did with my friend and his wife.

View from Mount Lofty

The summit of Mount Lofty (727m) is generally the first stop on such a trip because if offers and had spectacular views over Adelaide, the Fleurieu Peninsula and Gulf St Vincent. Although it was a sunny day, it was a cold wind at the top so we were soon back in the car and heading to the historic town of Hahndorf. It is undeniably pretty with German flags hanging from sandstone buildings and colourful flowers growing in half wine barrels. That aside, it has an interesting past and the distinction of being the oldest surviving German settlement (1839) in Australia.

The quaint German town of Hahndorf

A scenic drive north through the Torrens River Gorge leads to Gumeracha. This hardy little hillside town attracts tourists in the area because it is home to the largest rocking horse in the world.  It should just be called the largest horse because it doesn’t rock but it is impressive and part of a toy factory selling handmade wooden toys (and big rocking horse souvenirs!).  For the record, it stands 18.3m tall, has a length of 10.5m, weighs 25 tonnes and yes, we climbed to the top of it.

The world's largest rocking horse in Gumeracha

Into the Barossa Valley, we stopped at Menglers Hill Lookout for lunch.  This offered a lovely panoramic view over the floor dotted with vineyards.  We visited a few wineries including the famous Penfolds and another one called Chateau Dorrien.  It's one of the few places that make the honey wine called mead and I bought a bottle there. There are a few different varieties and a couple are best to drink warm.  Ideal in winter but either way, it is oh so good!

One of the stone sculptures on Menglers Hill

My mother's great-grandparents were German and settled in the valley many years ago.  I took some time out to find the road that they named and see where their farm was.  I also found the small Lutheran cemetery where they are buried together with a few other relatives from that side of the family.  Unfortunately after doing all that it was nearly dark and we were a bit late to visit Jacobs Creek winery but we'd had an excellent day anyway.

Adelaide

And then there were two. We still had some 1,300km to travel but our initial stop would be the Great Australian Bight. The marine park here is the second largest in the world after the Great Barrier Reef and is home to migratory whales from July to August. Although it was too early for whale watching it was worth stopping just for the great views of the Southern Ocean, sand dunes and the towering Bunda Cliffs. We then pushed on to the raggedy fishing town of Ceduna which in the local Aboriginal language means ‘a place to sit down and rest’.

The Great Australian Bight

We did exactly that for a while before pushing on to Port Augusta which on the map at least, appears to be at the biggest crossroad in Australia. From this town at the head of the Spencer Gulf, you can treat it as the gateway to the vast outback, Flinders Ranges or Eyre Peninsula. Highways and railways roll out toward Kalgoorlie in the west, Alice Springs and Darwin in the north, Sydney and Melbourne in the east and our destination of Adelaide in the south. Not a bad position!

Arriving in Port Augusta

As we passed various road signs I thought for a moment about Lou trying to catch a final ride to catch his flight. I’ll never know but I somehow doubted that he made it. We stayed a final night in Port Augusta and took a walk around the old town centre the next morning. It has some elegant buildings and a pleasant waterfront where some locals were fishing. From there, it was just a four hour drive to the South Australia state capital. It had been a strange trip but I’d made it and ‘all’s well that ends well’ as they say.

Adelaide has a culture and sophistication that you’d expect from the 'City of Churches'. The largest of these is St Peters Cathedral which majestically overlooks the Adelaide Oval. This famous old sports arena is used for cricket in summer and Australian Rules football in the winter.  I took time to visit the excellent museum housing personal items of cricketing legend Sir Donald Bradman. Just across the pretty River Torrens is the lush botanic gardens and city zoo. The river also meanders past the Adelaide Golf Course on its scenic route out to Gulf St Vincent.

River Torrens

Most of the tourist sights are within walking distance of the Rundle St shopping mall and many are strung along North Terrace just one block away.  Aside from the Botanical Gardens, the South Australia University, Art Gallery, Museum and Library are all here. Both the art gallery and museum offer free tours twice a day. These are an excellent way of taking in the highlights (including an enormous giant squid) but I was also glad I had more time to enjoy the exhibition on whales and renowned Antarctic explorer Sir Douglas Mawson.

Central Adelaide has several attractive squares named after people who were significant to the city's history.  In the large Victoria Square there is an impressive fountain that represents the three rivers Adelaide sources its water from.  I did a tour of the Town Hall and the enthusiastic guide had so many stories to tell it lasted nearly two hours. Amid the European colonial architecture of this area are several alluring markets selling food, art, craft, clothes and jewellery. A couple are Sunday markets but the superb Central Market offer about 250 stalls from Tuesday to Saturday.

 

The pleasant North Terrace

I stayed with a friend out in the suburbs was had to rely on buses every day to get to the city.  The unique transport system here makes commuter life simple.  Outside the central city area, the buses run on specially designed tracks which essentially make them like trains.  The driver told me it's a German system called the O-Bahn. The buses are adapted with small guide wheels at the front that enable them to run smoothly at up to 100kmh. As he was chatting to me he sat happily with arms folded while the bus steered itself.