Colombo woes

Greetings from the Sri Lankan hill country.  This area lives in a perpetual spring, far away from the heat and heavy air of the coastal regions.  Little more than 150 years ago, elephants and tigers roamed through the jungles here.  Nowadays though, it is a stunningly beautiful landscape of tea plantations that make this nation once known as Ceylon famous.  Although India is the largest producer of tea in the world, the flavours of tea grown here are acknowledged to be the best.  If scenery counts for anything then it’s easy to see why. 

It almost seems a long time ago now but my arrival in Sri Lanka was in the same way as virtually all tourists: at the clean, modern Bandaranaike International Airport.  It was there that I had to arrange my visa and change some money.  After leaving the terminal I was bound for Colombo and I’d have to say a less than auspicious start to travelling the country… 

The chaotic streets of the Colombo Fort area

The bus took about an hour and a half to make the 40km journey into the Fort area of the city where I planned to stay.  What makes Colombo a difficult place for budget travellers is the miserable selection of suitable accommodation.  The most obvious choice is the creaking old YMCA but when I arrived all the rooms were full and the only choice I had was a place in a 20-bed dorm.  It had been a long day and I didn’t really fancy the idea.  I decided to take my chances elsewhere.

They were few and far between but I went from one place to another.  In the first hotel the staff looked at me like I’d just crawled out of a swamp.  The second one I wouldn’t have boarded my dog there if I owned one.  Another didn’t have any vacancy.  The next no-one seemed to speak English.  It was getting later and I was getting tired.  Then a man started shadowing me and trying to help with his broken English.  He followed me into the next place and was actually hindering me so I told him to leave.

Galle Face Green

That place was too expensive and things were looking grim.  The irritating man had failed to leave and was waiting outside for me.  I headed around the corner where I was told there was yet another option with him pointing and muttering something beside me.  I decided to just ignore him now.  I thought the place I ended up at was overpriced but I’d had enough and decided to stay.  Unbelievably when I came out again to get something to eat the man was still there!  This time he was asking for money for his ‘help’.

When I told him he’s not getting anything he cursed and flicked some dust at me.  I took a swing at him, he raised a fist at me and there was nearly a fight in the street!  Fortunately he retreated into the night and I didn’t see him again.  It was late by the time I finally went to bed but after lying for a while in the darkness I felt uncomfortable.  Something didn’t feel right so I got up and turned on the light.  On the sheet I saw firstly one and then several…the room was infested with bedbugs!

Colombo...not my favourite city in the world!

I’m not sure what I’d done to deserve all this.  I went down to reception but it was deserted so back in the room I took the mattress off the bed and put it on the floor.  I took out my sleeping bag but I was still acutely aware of the bugs.  I’ve had this situation once before in Laos and the result was the same: no sleep the whole night.  It is literally one of the traveller’s worst nightmares.

I didn’t get much money changed at the airport so the arrangement I made with the hotel was that I would pay the balance (about $4) in the morning.  When I got up I decided that I wasn’t going to pay them anything more at all.  Not a single rupee.  If anything, they should be giving me a refund.  They didn’t agree with my sentiments and an argument ensued.  The result was that as I was walking out the door they were calling the police!

So, welcome to Sri Lanka…  In less than 24 hours I’d nearly been involved in a brawl and made myself the possible subject of a police investigation over an unpaid hotel account.  They have my passport number so I could potentially be questioned when I come to leave the country but looking on the positive side, I thought that at least things should improve…

Bangalore

The huge cosmopolitan city of Bangalore is home to some six million people and the hub of India’s booming IT industry.  Fortunately though, in the surge of urban development some care has been taken to preserve some green space and the city’s colonial heritage.  This is evident in the large Cubbon Park which is home to the attractive red-painted Gothic style State Library and High Court buildings.  Behind the court is the massive Vidhana Soudha building with the amusing inscription on the front reading “Government Work is God’s Work”.  I’ll let you judge for yourself if this is true!

Karnataka State Library, Cubbon Park

There are a few interesting museums in the city and I visited a couple of them.  The first was an Industrial and Technical Museum that was totally interactive.  So, it was time to release the child within and play with a large number of scientific exhibits.  There was an interesting display on the Wright Brothers and a replica of their plane the Kitty Hawk.  In their research on the first ever flight there is no mention of a New Zealander by the name of Richard Pearce though.

It’s been a big day today with a lot of walking.  The highlight was roaming through the huge Lalbagh Botanical Gardens that sprawl over an area of 96 acres.  That’s a lot of garden to maintain but it’s being done well and with an unusual absence of litter it’s a very pleasant place to visit.  The serenity here contrasted to the hectic pace of the City Market that I visited earlier.  I’m sure in its day it was more impressive but the small and rather ordinary Tipu Sultan’s Palace wasn’t worth the cost of admission.  The ornate temple adjacent to it was equally interesting and completely free. 

Vidhana Soudha

I visited a couple of other temples today where, being a Sunday, worshippers were out in force.  Strangely though, the cathedral was deserted and not even open.  So I went to the nearby cricket stadium and was met at the gate by two security guards who took their roles seriously.  They reluctantly let me take a photo from the gate and watched my every move.  I wonder what on earth they thought I was going to do!  I finished my day at the Government Museum and adjoining art gallery that had displays featuring ceramics, sculptures, paintings and a large model of the original city fort.   

So that’s it.  I’m not really sure how I’ve done it but I’ve managed to get though 24 days without the hint of the stomach problems that plagued my last trip through the subcontinent.  I lost 14kg on that particular adventure so I can only hope that things continue to go well for the next few weeks!

Lalbagh Botanical Gardens

My good health has contributed to a very enjoyable time here.  It’s been a great journey and included so many sights, sounds, smells, tastes and wonderful people.  It really is an extraordinary country that creates such enduring memories for all who come here.  While walking around on my very first day in Chennai I passed a busload of Korean tourists.  The words “Incredible India” were on the side of their bus.  I was reflecting on that last night and realised how true it is. 

But I couldn’t help wondering how ‘incredible’ it is being shuttled around in an air conditioned bus and staying in luxury hotels along the way.  Part of what makes India incredible is getting to the grassroots of the country through talking to the local people and understanding their culture.  Travelling on a budget naturally creates those opportunities and although there are discomforts involved, being insulated from them somehow wouldn’t be a complete experience.   

Words of wisdom on the Bangalore streets

Apart from all the wonderful sights I’ve seen, simple things that happen every day are what has made India incredible.  Getting sweaty and dusty walking traffic choked streets.  Haggling over the price of a rickshaw ride.  Dropping a couple of coins in the dirty hand of a beggar while waiting for a hopelessly overcrowded bus.  Asking directions from someone who speaks so quickly all you can do is nod, smile and say thanks.  Talking with young men who love cricket and girls that love men who love cricket.  Eating a meal and finding out just how relative the word ‘spicy’ is.

These are just a few of the things that make India what it is and I’m fortunate to have been given the opportunity to experience it again.  I can only trust now that Sri Lanka offers something similar...

Mysore

Although it has a rather unfortunate name, the city of Mysore bowls you over with its flamboyant royal heritage and bustling markets.  After a five hour bus journey and finding accommodation there wasn’t much time for sightseeing but I did get to see places like the stately Government House (1805), Memorial Hall (1884), and the beautiful neo-Gothic cathedral built between 1933 and 1941.  I finished my day at the Devarjara Market which sells traditional items such as spices, sandalwood, incense and flower garlands that many women wear in their hair each day.

Spices of the Devarjara Market

The rail museum was an interesting diversion but the highlight of the city is undoubtedly the fantastic Mysore Palace.  It is among the grandest of India’s royal buildings and certainly one of the most amazing places I’ve visited.  The original palace was constructed of wood and gutted by fire in 1897.  The current one was completed in 1912 with no expense spared!  It was designed by an English architect in what is known as Indo-Saracenic style.  This means that there are several influences in the design such as Hindu and colonial European.

Mysore Cathedral

It is impressive from the outside but the interior is an absolute marvel of stained glass, mirrors, carved wooden doors (some with ivory inlay designs) and ceiling panels, beautiful paintings and mosaic floors.  Several rooms are adorned with a fine collection of furniture, sculptures and royal artefacts.  It’s one of the most lavish places I’ve ever been and a great insight into how the rulers of Mysore lived.  It seems they didn’t want for anything!  The palace administration of today is well organised with headsets available in several different languages for tourists at no additional charge.  That made the whole experience even better.

The magnificent Mysore Palace

I had an extra day up my sleeve so used it for a trip up Chamundi Hill which is the ever present landmark to the south of the city.  There is a large temple atop this hill but I found the whole place a bit of a tourist trap to be honest.  I refused to pay the exorbitant entry fee and admired the towering gopuram (entrance gate) from the outside.  I don’t imagine the inside could be that different to what I’ve already seen in south India.  I then made my escape before the roving vendors could ask if I wanted to buy any of their goods.

 

After getting the bus up the hill, I descended using the steps that many pilgrims use to get up to the temple.  About a third of the way down is a huge statue of the Hindu bull deity Nandi that was carved out of solid rock in 1659.  The walk was also interesting for those I encountered along the way.  There was a man singing for all he was worth as he made his way down and there were several people stooping to mark every step on the way up with a red powder.  There are 1,000 of them altogether so my guess is they reached the temple with a sore back!

Meeting the locals on Chamundi Hill

I visited an art gallery that displayed a range of masks with explanations on their significance to the cultures they belong to.  After that it was off to the Mysore Zoo which is set in pretty gardens on the edge of the city.  It dates from 1892 but has a reasonably modern feel to it.  Relatively speaking, the wide range of animals, birds and reptiles are in good enclosures and well cared for.  So, it was a pleasant way to conclude my time there and head to my final Indian destination of Bangalore.

Ooty

What a lovely place Ooty is and after sweating though the southern lowlands of India it was nice to feel the fresh mountain air of this British hill station.  At an altitude of 2,240m, days only reach the low 20’s and nights are distinctly cold at this time of year.  The town itself is set around the aptly named Reflections Lake and the adjacent racecourse.  It’s certainly no Ascot or Flemington but horse racing here is apparently an event not to be missed if you get the chance.

Reflections Lake, Ooty

The first place I visited here was the extraordinary Thread Garden.  I didn’t quite know what to expect but it really is amazing.  It’s a ‘garden’ that has been created out of nothing but thread, canvas and wire and all by hand.  The work took 50 craftspeople 12 years to complete and the result is a stunning array of plants and flowers (150 species altogether) that look at a glance to be quite real.

Flowers of the extraordinary Thread Garden

In the town itself I went to St Stephen’s Church that was built in 1829 and features huge wooden beams that were hauled by elephants from some 120km away.  I finished my day at the very impressive Botanical Gardens which were a contrast to those I visited in Pondicherry.  Apart from being very well presented, there was also a fossilised tree trunk there that is believed to be about 20 million years old. 

The Centenary Rose Garden has a sign near the entrance proclaiming it to the ‘best rose garden in the world’.  Now, I’m no expert on the subject but I can emphatically say that it is not.  I’m sure it becomes more impressive later in the year when there are more blooms but right now it is rather ordinary and barely worth the cost of a ticket.  The superb views from the Doddabetta Lookout 9km from the town were much better and the hike back down took me through a pretty tea estate and also to a tea factory which doubled as an interesting museum.

Botanical Gardens

While I was at the factory, I suddenly began to feel light headed and a bit nauseous.  I had to sit down quickly because I felt like I was going to pass out.  I didn’t quite understand what was happening but then I realised…  I was at an altitude of about 2,600 metres above sea level and I was being affected by that.  Exactly the same thing happened to me when I was trekking in Nepal but on that occasion I did actually faint.  I do some things well but high altitude isn’t one of them I’m afraid!  I was fine after a while though and visited the Tribal Museum in a small village on the other side of Ooty.  It was here that I learnt about the lifestyle and culture of the six hill tribes that live in the Nilgiri area.

Best in the world?  No.

The journey from Ooty to Mysore is quite a ride if you don’t have a strong stomach.  There are plenty of tight corners and hairpin bends as we plunged some 1,500 metres in elevation.  The scenery changed from alpine forest to scrubby bush and palm trees dotting an arid landscape of brown fields.  It was warm again.