It was on
the journey to Palitana that things started to go a little pear shaped. The first
part was fine but a puncture to the bus tyre was the beginning of the
trouble. After the repairs were complete I started to feel unwell
and in the warmth of the bus I started to feel cold. Then there were serious
hints of diahorrea. Let me tell you... it's the most terrible feeling
sitting on a bus, shivering and not quite knowing which will arrive first: your
destination or bowel movement! I prayed hard it wouldn't be the latter
and fortunately I made it okay.
The next 24
hours were spent in my hotel room either in bed or visiting the
toilet. It wasn't pleasant. I also had the sweats and a high
temperature at various times. My main concern was dehydration and I made
an effort to drink as much as I could. I'm not certain what it was other
than a virus of some kind and I have no idea where I picked it up. The
possibilities are endless and it's simply one of the pitfalls of
travelling the sub-continent.
Repairing bus puncture |
Unfortunately,
this has had an effect on my travels throughout Gujarat but I'm happy to say
that it hasn't stopped me from doing anything that I planned. So although
it hasn't been an optimal experience, I've enjoyed it just the same and seen
some great sights. The first of these was the temples on the hilltop
at Shatrunjaya (Place of Victory), 3km from Palitana. After the day I'd
had previous you can probably imagine I was apprehensive about climbing the
3200 steps up to the top. But it was better than I had prepared myself
for and the ascent took about 1.5 hours.
Before I
even reached the top there was a sight that I unfortunately won't quickly
forget and believe me...it wasn't something I was rushing to get my camera out
for. In a country that is very conservative about dress and showing too
much skin, a guy passed me on the path stark
bollock naked! I had no idea what it was all about other than being of
some religious significance. Just to make my day I passed him again going
down the hill. Charming...
Hilltop temples of Palitana |
The temples
themselves were amazing and well worth the effort to get up the hill.
There are literally hundreds of them built over a 900 year period. Almost
all of them are Jain and it is evidence of their belief that merit is derived
from constructing temples. They are built in nine different enclosures
with one main temple and many minor ones clustered around. They date from
the 16th century because the earliest ones built in the 11th century were
destroyed by the Muslims. The hilltop also gave nice views back to
Palitana.
My
next stop was the beach town of Diu.
I'd been looking foward to the beach there and it didn't let me down.
It's a beautiful, peaceful place with a strong Portugese influence. This
is evidenced by the narrow streets and alleyways together with brightly painted
buildings in the old town area. Diu township
is on the eastern end of an island between a huge fort and city
wall. I walked around the old fort which has a lighthouse within it
that gave a great view of the town and across to the mainland. In
the afternoon I hired a bike and rode down to the fishing village at the
far end of the island. I stopped at a nice beach to watch the sunset
on my way back.
Portuguese fort, Diu |
I
spent the following morning at the beach before getting a bus to
Veraval. I had the whole place to myself and it was very relaxing.
Perhaps too much because I ended up sunburnt! Veraval isn't a place
I'll remember very fondly. The area around the port smells of fish
and the city is dusty, noisy and congested. I was only using
it as a gateway to visit the temple in the nearby village of Somnath.
To be honest, it was doubtful whether the temple was worth the visit.
There's no doubt it's a beautiful structure with some fine carving but it has no
sense of history because it's only 50 years old.
The site
itself certainly has a history with the original temple being built over 1000
years ago. Since then it has been destroyed and rebuilt four
times. (There was a pattern of Muslim destruction and Hindu
rebuilding which continued for centuries.) So, in a way I actually
enjoyed visiting the adjacent museum more because it has been partly
constructed of fragments of the last original temple and contained many stone
carvings found at the site. I'd hired a bike that day so took it back
through the port to see people mending nets and building wooden boats by
hand. Noah himself would have been proud of them.
Fishing town of Veraval |
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