It
was then a long day of bus travel down to the southern coast. The
estimated six hours stretched to over eight by the time I finally
reached my destination. When I started that morning I didn’t even
know exactly where I’d end up. I had a couple of days up my sleeve
and there are a number of beach towns along the coast that I could
have chosen. I eventually decided that Unawatuna was the best option
because the name has such a ring to it. Well, actually more because
it has a lovely curving stretch of beach and its close proximity to
Galle but the name is just great isn’t it?
Unawatuna Beach |
My
final challenge in the gathering gloom was to find a place to stay
which I knew wasn’t going to be easy. It’s peak tourist season
now but after some searching, I found myself a nice room at a very
reasonable rate. Staying in Galle itself is quite expensive so I
thought why not have the best of both worlds? The city within a ten
minute bus ride but cheaper accommodation and the beach to welcome me
home after a hot, sweaty day’s sightseeing. The steamy heat of the
coastal lowlands has been quite different to the fresh mountain air
I’d become used to in the Hill Country!
Galle
reminds me a little of Melaka in Malaysia because of its rich
maritime history and occupation through various periods by the
Portuguese, Dutch and British. The older part of the city is built
within the fort walls and is a wonderful collection of Dutch colonial
buildings, little boutique shops, cafes, hotels, churches, a mosque,
library, museums and a few commercial buildings. Unlike the typical
Sri Lankan tangle that is the new town, these streets are blissfully
quiet and atmospheric.
Character buildings and quiet streets of Galle Fort |
The
36-hectare fort covers most of the promontory that is the original
part of Galle. I climbed up onto the massive walls and walked a
complete circuit of the fort. Starting at the main gate, I passed
the original old gate and a number of bastions located at strategic
points. It was interesting to note how the part of the wall facing
inland was the most heavily fortified. 350 years after its
construction through it all remains very robust and this was proven
when it protected the old quarter during the 2004 tsunami. In
contrast, the new town and much of the surrounding coastline was
devastated.
Walls of the old Galle Fort |
Historically,
the most interesting building in the fort is the Dutch Reformed
Church that was completed in 1755. The floor is paved with
gravestones from the old Dutch cemetery, with the oldest dating from
1662. I’m not sure that it is still used but the original pipe
organ from 1760 sits in the church and the pulpit is made from
Malaysian wood that would have been brought to Sri Lanka on a trading
ship. Next door to the church is the Amangalla Hotel built in 1684
to house the Dutch governor and officers.
Bell Tower and Dutch Reformed Church |
History
abounds at almost every corner you turn in this wonderful place.
There is a bell tower built in 1901 and a slab over the doorway to
the Dutch Government House bears the date 1683. There is an old
shipping office with a beautifully preserved 19th
century ship arrival board on the front wall. The National Museum
(yes, another one) was closed but I did visit the Maritime Museum.
This has been renovated recently and just reopened again a couple of
years ago. I found it to be more museum than maritime but the
displays were well put together anyway.
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