After exploring Perth and accumulating some money from my work at the
hostel, it was time for a ten-day trip around the south-west corner
of Australia. As I imagined, it was a magnificent area
highlighted by lovely beaches, tall trees, vineyards, wine and some
great bush walking. Unfortunately the weather didn't always
quite match the splendour of the scenery but overall it wasn't too
bad.
Together with two friends, we set a course for the small town of
Hyden, about 350km east of Perth. We didn't make it all the way
there on the first day and camped at a curious little place called
Gorge Rock. The toilet was on a concrete pad and the
walls around it had fallen down. I smiled at the sign reading 'No
Swimming and No Fires' because in the dusty dry background were a
couple of fireplaces and some firewood.
The heritage listed Gorge Rock Hall |
I smiled again at the Gorge Rock Hall. Constructed in
1920, this dilapidated old structure of wood and corrugated iron
looked shaky and nearly ready to collapse. On one of the rusty
walls it had a sign which read: "The Gorge Rock Hall is
considered to be of significant heritage value and is included on the
Municipal Inventory of heritage places. The hall is worthy
of conservation as it is a special and important place. Please
respect it."
Hyden is in the southern wheat belt which is dotted with large
granite outcrops. The most famous of these is the perfectly shaped
cresting wave called Wave Rock. Originally called Hyden Rock, it
wasn't till 1963 when a photo of it won an international
competition that the name was changed. Initially only a
few tourists made the trip to see it but numbers soon
increased and various facilities were put in place. Today,
it is one of Western Australia's great sights.
Wave Rock |
Formed millions of years ago by weathering and erosion, Wave Rock’s
smooth lines are dramatically enhanced by streaks of colour created
by run-off from local mineral springs. I got the almost obligatory
photo of ‘surfing’ the rock before taking a walk up on top of the
wave for views of the surrounding countryside. This area features
another fascinating rock formation called Hippos Yawn. As the name
suggests, it’s a huge overhanging rock that looks like the gaping
jaw of a hippopotamus.
From Hyden, we travelled south to coastal town of Esperance.
The town itself doesn't have a lot to recommend it so we headed
east to the Le Grand National Park. The clear turquoise water
and white-sand beaches here have been voted as among the best in
the country. There's a small mountain in the park called
Frenchman Peak so while the girls had a picnic at the beach I
hiked to the top. The sign in the car park indicated
two hours return but after really hustling, I was enjoying the
great panoramic views from the summit after only 15 minutes.
Whale carcass, Le Grand National Park |
I had a swim when I returned. The water was cold but not as bad as I
expected. As I emerged from the water I read a sign advising
that “A whale carcass had been washed ashore in the next bay and
sharks had been sighted in the area. Swimming is not
recommended”. We went to view the whale the following morning
and it was an extraordinary sight. It would have been about 10
metres in length and weighed several tons. Bite marks
from the sharks were clearly visible along the side and the fins were
missing.
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