Greetings
from the holiest city in India - Varanasi. I arrived here early last
night after a big couple of days bus travel from Pokhara. The first day
to Sounali took about 8 hours and yesterday was a gruelling twelve-hour
endurance test to get here.
I
travelled the first leg with a few girls who were doing the whole journey non-stop.
Perhaps I'm getting old or something but I couldn't do it. I decided
that making a break on the border and leaving again in the morning was a
better idea. Sounali is an odd little place which I don't have much
fondness for but it makes an ideal place just to stay over. It's a dusty
town literally caught between two worlds and doesn't have anything like the
charm of a place like Pokhara.
Yesterday, after
I'd negotiated the two immigration control points I picked up the 7am bus bound
for Varanasi. Any thoughts that an Indian 'government' bus may be more
comfortable than the one I'd just travelled on were dispelled
immediately. It was worse! This was a noisy old boneshaker that I
was destined to spend a long time in.
The distance we travelled wasn't huge but it was painfully
slow. We probably averaged about 45kmh as we rattled along toward our
destination. I decided to sit up the front - partly because the view was
more interesting but also because it wasn't so bumpy.
The
only problem with that was I was much closer to the incredibly loud horn that
the driver had no hesitation in using very liberally. I quickly
decided that earplugs would make that aspect of my journey more comfortable but
it didn't help my bum which was getting increasingly sore. Eventually I
had to sit on my sweater to create some extra padding because a thin layer of
foam rubber over wood doesn't quite do it after a few hours. Along the way we hit a dog and had a near
miss with a baby monkey. It was a
terrible journey and when we arrived I actually felt more sorry for the driver
than myself. That was a very long day in
the saddle!
This
morning I went down early to the River Ganges to experience what this city
is about. It was an extraordinary sight watching the locals bathing in
this filthy river but they have no problem with it. All along the bank of
the river are ghats, which are bathing houses.
Several of which are 'burning ghats', which are used for cremation ceremonies. For the Indians it's considered the best
possible place to depart earth and I watched one of these ceremonies as it took
place.
I
did a little tour there that included an early morning boat trip on the River
Ganges. Dawn is when most of the local people come down to the
river to bathe and pray. It was also the best way to view the
ghats. So, there was plenty to see both along the banks
and also in the dozens of other boats being rowed along the river. The
majority of them were tourists but the locals continued their morning
rituals seemingly oblivious to all the attention.
It amazed
me that people could use this water to wash themselves and their
laundry. I'm not certain about human bodies being in the river (I
was told by another traveller that she saw a corpse while doing her boat
trip) but our boat did pass the rotting carcass of a cow. Either
way, the ashes from cremations were all put in the river and it's just
disgustingly polluted. But it was a very interesting city to visit and I
enjoyed my few days there.
I've
discovered that travelling in India your business is very rarely your
own. Indians have an incredible natural curiosity and want to know where
you're from, where you're going and how long you are going to take doing
it. This is often combined with a strong desire to sell you
something. So, in Varanasi I bought a t-shirt that is
probably the best $1.20 I'll spend here. It reads:
NO
Money Change
NO
Hashish
NO
Boat
NO
Silk
NO
Rickshaw
NO
PROBLEM!
In
other words, I don't need any of the above and if I do I can ASK. I could
even add a few more to it….no shave, haircut, massage and no useless souvenirs.
Onward
to the town of Orchha, which is just south of Jhansi. Once a capital
city, it's now a town set among the palaces and temples from its
history. Its golden age was the 17th century so most of the
historical sites are from this era. The most impressive of these is
Jehangir Mahal palace which is a complex building with many rooms,
hallways and levels. It looks 400 years old in many ways but
the small parts of marble remaining are a glimpse of how glorious it
looked when it was first built.
There
is another palace and couple of temples which I visited. While I was
happily watching the sunset from the upper level of the Ram Raja Temple I
didn't realise that the attendant was happily closing and padlocking the huge
wooden doors downstairs. So, when I came to leave I was trapped
inside! After some searching around I found a place where I had to hang
by my fingernails and drop onto a ledge before being able to access some
steps. They led to the bottom of a wall that I had to climb over to eventually
get out!
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